Michael Field instructs: “When you buy your leg of lamb, ask the butcher not to remove the fell, the thin parchment-like covering around the leg. Old wives’ tales notwithstanding, the fell does not give the lamb an excessively “lamby” taste, but instead encases the meat in a fine crisp crust as it roasts, thus sealing in its juices.” And further: “Whatever your prejudices are about rare lamb, don't overcook the leg; it is at its best pink; if you insist upon well-done leg of lamb, however, then braise it–don't roast it–…”.
A very nice bone-in specimen was recently roasted after marinating in lemon zest, lemon juice and black pepper overnight. The “creative leftover improvisations” thus far were thinly-sliced-roast-lamb-leg-on-leftover-Thanksgiving-olive-oil-rolls-with-Laura- Chenel’s-Chèvre sliders. Then most likely: roast-lamb-leg, feta and kalamata olive Friday night pizza. I love leftovers.
Michael Field says, “The original, ascribed to Auguste Escoffier “the king of chefs”, was a rich mixture of sherry-spiked cream, turkey and cheese, named in honor of Luisa Tetrazzini, a celebrated early-20th-century opera singer”. This wonderful creation is composed of Linguine, left-over roasted Turkey, butter sautéed Mushrooms, and a butter Roux and Egg Yolk thickened, Madeira-spiked, and Cream enhanced Turkey Stock, layered and baked in a covered casserole. Finally gilded with a mixture of fresh Bread Crumbs and Parmigiano-Reggiano and browned under the broiler. My rendition is surprisingly pretty much as prescribed by Michael. With touches including twice the mushrooms (Cremini), just a little less butter and added fire-roasted red pepper slivers for their complimentary flavor and color.
I have been making this deliciously decadent dish with leftover roasted turkey since the early 1970s, at the pinnacle of casserole popularity. Though it is obvious that this is not even a distant relative of the canned soup based, covered dish variety. It never fails to impress and satisfy- this is Gourmet Comfort Food! Every time I roast a turkey, I look forward to making and enjoying this glorious leftover dish; and this past week was the latest remembrance of fond food memories revisited. My hope is that I have inspired any resourceful cook, able create a personal version of this dish to the delight and enjoyment of those celebrating the Thanksgiving season.
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